Can he jump?

I posted this on HF and got some interesting responses:

This is strictly a conformational question at this point - I'm not at a point where I'm ready to start jumping and, when I do get to that point, i'll be working with a trainer. However, my horse is slightly buck-kneed and I've been told by some people that I shouldn't jump him because it wouldn't be good for him with those knees. Other people have told me it isn't an issue. What do you think?

Read more: http://www.horseforum.com/jumping/can-he-jump-148771/#ixzz2J3H5khkR

My horse has intact reproductive organs - should I breed?

*Rant warning*

My horse has intact reproductive organs - should I breed?

Probably not.

See, if you have to ask, that means you probably shouldn't. The only people who should be breeding are those dedicated to improving the quality and standard of horses and breeds. This requires a lifetime of knowledge about what breeding actually involves, the skill to select an acceptable sire and dam, and then the ability to follow through with the required commitment and responsibilities - which, if you are planning on breeding, you should expect to last for the next 30 years.

But....

• I want to experience having a foal! Well, that foal is going to require a lot of care before it's born and for many years afterward. Talk to a vet - I'm sure they'll help you experience the creation of horsie life.
• I want to raise my horse from being a baby! Have you considered the risks and expense of doing something like this? What about the time commitment? What if something goes wrong? And when it comes time to train it, do you have experience starting a horse? Can you handle maintaining its training after it's been started? Even if you have the money to send it to the trainer, you will have to be able to handle when your horse conveniently *forgets* its training and you need to give them a refresher. This is critical for youngsters.
• It'd be cheaper to just breed my horse than buy one! Add up the cost feed, training, farrier costs, vet bils, training, etc. up to when you could consider your horse "broke" - and I think you'll find it's cheaper to buy that already-broke horse.
• I want to make a business out of this! Horse businesses don't make much money, if any. In fact, there is a specific tax law that says horse businesses can have a loss for more than twice as many years as a regular business and still keep their business tax status. Then, think about the economy - in many places, you can't even give away a good horse anymore.
• My horse is amazing! To you. But to anyone else looking for a horse, it's just another horse.
• I'm sure someone will buy the baby! No, you can never be sure. You have to be willing to commit the next 30 years of your life to this baby just in case.
• I'll keep it its whole life! 30 years is a long time. You dont' know what will happen. If you died tomorrow - what would happen to your precious baby?

And the same goes for those who want to keep their colts studs. Unless you have the qualifications to be a reputable breeder, know what you're doing inside and out, and you're committed to campaigning your stud and making him breed-worthy to others, you don't need a stud. This puts you, the people around your stud, and the stud himself at risk of so many accidents and sad endings. Not to mention the complications of owning a stud...

I'm sorry but if you're asking whether you should be breeding your horse, or whether another horse is a good match for your horse, or if you should keep a horse as a stud, then you dont' have the expertise to be breeding at all.

There are too many good, healthy horses looking for homes to bring another horse into this world. Breeding your horse, for whatever reason, is what contributes to that situation, even if it's just taking away the opportunity for another horse to get adopted because your needlessly-bred baby was chosen over the one in need. Please, just don't do it.

*End rant*

Read more: http://www.horseforum.com/horse-breeding/my-horse-has-intact-reproductive-organs-148212/#ixzz2J3Gn5XBR

Snickers's conformation

I posted this with a picture of Snickers on HF to see what people could tell me about his conformation.  I was pleasantly surprised by their responses!

I know it's not the best picture, but I'm only looking for a fairly general critique. He's my baby and I love this horse to death - I mainly want to know if there's anything that I need to pay attention to. For instance, I've been told I shouldn't jump him because of his front knees.

I see.... slightly over at the knees, an angular rump, and a parrot mouth with a pretty decent overbite.

What do you see and is there anything that would limit what he can do?

Read more: http://www.horseforum.com/horse-conformation-critique/tell-me-what-you-think-148149/#ixzz2J3J1kASE

Gah more bit uncertainty

I'm really doubting the bit I got is going to work since it's so dang thick. Someone suggested this bit:

I found this one, but I don't want to wait for shipping!  Even though it doesn't say it in the description, the URL indicates this is the exact same bit. I'm really doubting the bit I got is going to work since it's so dang thick. I just don't want to wait for shipping! Ugh. O well, this is the best price I've found (shipping stinks, though) and they have the blanket repair tape that I need to order. What do you think?

Read more: http://www.horseforum.com/horse-tack-equipment/bit-irritation-148001/page2/#ixzz2J3Ddv6SI

Possible solution?

Well, I sold my single-jointed snaffle (I have another one I like better somewhere...) and bought a French Link with the money. At worst, I'll be out the $5 difference. Here's what I got (already attached to my bit hangers for my bridle). 

I'm nervous since we've had so many issues, but I'm hoping it'll work out. Otherwise, I'll test out my friend's Myler and maybe even a mullen mouth. The lady at the tack shop suggested a Sprenger bit, and they're even more expensive than the Mylers. Anybody with experience with these?

This was the only affordable french link I could find (most people around here ride Western, so anything English is hard to get any options with), but I think it might be too thick. It's still a good bit to have regardless, so I won't regret buying it either way.

I guess we'll see how he reacts to it tomorrow, but there's barely any room in that mouth so I don't know if the thickness is going to be a problem.

Read more: http://www.horseforum.com/horse-tack-equipment/bit-irritation-148001/page2/#ixzz2J3DEwwXW

Beet pulp

This thread challenged my previous thoughts about beet pulp and encouraged me to learn more in order to back my point of view - and I did feel that my research ultimately did support my points as well as enlightened me a little more about beet pulp:

Horse not Drinking

and related...

Different types of beet pulp?

Bit irritation

For the short version - My horse is extremely irritated by the bits I've tried on him, and I think it's because they're hitting the roof of his mouth. I got a pretty close look at what was going on in there today with a single-jointed snaffle and a curb with a small/medium port, and I even stuck my fingers in there and got the same reaction when I touched the roof of his mouth as I do with the bit. So now I'm trying to figure out what I should do...

So, now what? I only have single-jointed snaffles and the curb bit, none of which work for him. I wonder if a double-jointed snaffle, like a French Link, would work, or if I'd be better off going with a mullen-mouth. I may be able to borrow a Myler bit sooner or later to see how it works (it's on loan to someone else at the moment), but I'd like to find a cheaper bit if I can.

Any ideas or suggestions here?

***

Now for the long-version with background information, just because I took so long to write it before I realized I could summarize it all in two nice little paragraphs:

My horse has had bit problems since shortly after I got him. I'm not sure if he had them before February, since that's before I bought him, and since he wasn't ridden regularly, I think it took a little bit of regular riding before I realized he was having issues. In other words, he might have always had these issues, but I just didn't recognize them.

What I did recognize was that about a month after I got him and he was getting ridden regularly, he started foaming up each time I put the bit in his mouth. Not the good "oh I like this bit" foaming up, but rather stressed-out-need-to-protect-my-mouth foaming up. It would literally cover his muzzle and drip off his face. It immediately went away, however, as soon as I switched him into a hackamore. Since then, I've moved him in a sidepull, my preferred type of bridle for various reasons, especially since I do endurance and it allows the horse to eat and drink more freely. However, I need to be able to use a bit for training and in other situations in order to communicate clearly.

During the winter, we've been doing some training, but as soon as I put the bit in his mouth, the problems begin. In a single-link snaffle bit, he immediately opens his mouth and pulls his lips back away from the bit. This is before I put any pressure on it at all. When I do put pressure on it, it becomes a battle and he throws his head, sticks it out, pulls down, etc.

At someone's suggestion, I tried a short shanked curb bit with a medium port to prevent any tongue-pinching to occur. When I put the bit in his mouth and let it sit, he did pull back his lips, but not nearly as badly as he did with the snaffle bit. However, when I put any pressure on the bit, he would try to get away from the pressure, open his mouth, and pull back his lips, as well as grind his teeth, but at least it didn't become a head-throwing battle. He just looked and felt very uncomfortable. Today, he didn't pull back his lips at all unless pressure was applied, but it was still just as bad each time I had to put any pressure on the bit.

After riding, I tried to get a good look at what was going on in his mouth. It seems that even the medium port is hitting the roof of his mouth, so he's opening his mouth to get away from it. I stuck my fingers in where the bit and couldn't avoid contact with the roof of his mouth, so I think the roof of his mouth is very low (but I don't have any comparison at the moment, so I'm not sure if all mouths are this low). Then, I put the snaffle back in his mouth. As soon as I put any pressure on it, the joint hit the roof of his mouth (I was pretty sure, but it's quite slobbery in there) and he opened it and pulled back his lips. Finally, I stuck my fingers in there again and bent my knuckles slightly. As soon as they hit the roof of his mouth, I got the same result. In fact, if I just stuck one finger in there and barely touched the roof of his mouth, I got the same reaction. I think I've found the source of my bit woes.

Read more: http://www.horseforum.com/horse-tack-equipment/bit-irritation-148001/#ixzz2J3BuhGaf